Casa di Pasta served the campus community for decades until it closed in winter. The restaurant had legions of loyal patrons drawn by the homemade Italian dishes, the warmth of the staff and the cozy house setting. It was a big loss for all when it shut its doors.

Delhi Darbar Restaurant, which has filled the space at 2321 N. High St. (in what is slowly becoming the Indian restaurant district) since mid-April, hasn’t changed the setting too much and carries on the tradition of homemade food, but Indian food, done in the Mughlai tradition. Columbus is the first international location for the owners, who also have thirty or so establishments in India.

The white tablecloths, flowered carpeting, white lace, mirrors, large patio, and stylish black bar are still around, only pictures of the Spanish Stairs have been replaced by pictures of the Taj Mahal.

The lunch buffet at just $6.75 is the best value in the restaurant and a great way to sample their food, especially if you’re not familiar with Indian cuisine. Ten or so dishes are featured in the frequently changing display, ranging from bread to dessert items.

Naan bread is a common sight on the display. The crisp, fluffy fried bread is brushed with butter, and is a great, filling starter. Pakora, another starter, are usually doughy, battered fried pieces of vegetables, but come in several variations.

Among the few chicken selections in the buffet is Tandoori Chicken, a dense, moist piece of grilled chicken. The meat is a mix of white and dark, wings and thighs, while the tandoori component is hard to detect but adds a reddish tint. Mushroom Mattar features large fresh and juicy button mushrooms mixed with peas in a hearty and mildly spicy sauce. Many of the entrees are vegetarian and often contain vegetables like peas, lima beans, chickpeas, corn, peppers and potatoes, and come in a variety of different sauces and spices.

Speaking of spice, Delhi Darbar serves most of its entrees in three degrees of spiciness: Mild, medium and hot. Spice is ranked according to an Indian system, so hot means hot: Really hot. To combat the heat, a Mango Lassi ($2.50) is in order. The cold, smoothie-like drink creates a nice balance, so the spice doesn’t become distracting. Plus, the biting taste of fresh mango is as pleasant as it is powerful.

Another drink, the Fresh Lime Soda (99 cents), is not as pleasant; perhaps an acquired taste. The lime soda itself isn’t bad, but the overpowering taste of the salt and pepper in the drink is strange, to say the least.

Garlic Naan ($2.75) is done just like the buttered Naan, with just a faint hint of garlic on it. The bread combines a handful of different styles, many of which are stuffed with meats or vegetables. Samosa ($3) is another starter worth ordering. The deliciously crisp pastry-like shells are stuffed with potatoes and peas and come with a sour, bright green yogurt sauce.

Rice never tasted so sweet. Zarda Pullow ($7.99) features sweet yellow rice with pieces of dried fruit and nuts in a heaping serving. It’s a creative use of rice, which has been cooked a thousand ways before, but rarely like this.

It’s a little surprising that the sweet flavor of the Coconut Murgh ($12.75) can be so spicy. The coconut shavings and thick, orange curry sauce cover the small pieces of chicken. The dish is served with basmati rice.

The frozen rectangles of fresh homemade frozen cream called Kulfi ($2.95) taste a little bit like “space ice cream.” No, not Dippin’ Dots; that’s ice cream of the future. Space Ice Cream; the kind astronauts eat in space, which can be bought at COSI. There’s more than enough to share of this cool, chewy dessert to share.

The restaurant also serves Indian wines and beers, as well as a few other selections.

Delhi Darbar Restaurant is open on most days from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. for lunch and from about 5 to 10 p.m. for dinner.

With quality homemade food and a great setting, it will be no surprise if the restaurant has the same staying power as its predecessor.