Say what you will about Campus Partners’ attempt to make an honest woman out of our precious University District; I like what they’ve done for Apollo’s Greek Kitchen.
Now I’m rarely one to argue for style over substance, but there is something to be said for having food served in a clean, well-lit environment. Perhaps the new motto could read, “Rat-Free: Tastes Great to Me!”
Joking aside, Apollo’s, located at 1590 N. High, is continuing to improve its image, while serving some of the best Greek cuisine in these parts at a price college students can afford.
One thing that impressed me about the smoke-free establishment was its obvious attention to its disabled customers. Nothing short of a cushioned chair-lift assists clientele unable to mount the stairs. While I was tempted to try out the mechanism myself, I simply couldn’t think of a way to ride the lift without looking crass.
While the dining area was clean and well-maintained, it was also cramped with room for only a handful of booths and tables. Groups of five or more should plan on either ordering take-out or calling 294-5006 for delivery.
It’s a well-known fact that one can’t have a good Greek restaurant without a good gyro. Co-Masticator Brian tackled Apollo’s gyro and had this to say, “The owner himself referred to the gyro simply as the goodness. He wasn’t kidding. The tomato and lettuce is matched well with the tzatziki cucumber sauce. This warm, lovable gyro secretes a constant dribble of lamb juice. Mmm mmm good. Pound for pound, I’d have to say that Apollo’s has the Pita Pit beat in the gyro department.”
Another big hit at Apollo’s is the baklava. The cinnamon and crushed walnuts on layered filo dough was outrageously sweet without being overdone. While baklava often tastes dry, Apollo’s serves its drizzled with a sweet syrup. The end result is baklava second only to Zeta’s European Emporium in overall quality.
Josh enjoyed his souvlaki pita stating: “This holds its own against its Pita Pit rival, overflowing with pork, lettuce, tomato and the like. It might not be as tasty as their gyro, my personal favorite, but it’s still damn good.”
Jarrod put the falafel to the test and reports back: “The deep-fried chick-peas are much better than the Pita Pit’s. Unlike the Pita Pit, who warms up the falafel from a Tupperware container, Apollo’s deep-fries the nuggets just before adding them to the pita. The end product is warm, fresh and very good.”
I split an order of kalamari with Jarrod and was unimpressed. Don’t get me wrong, the squid rings were served up hot and fresh with a little side of marinara sauce. The end result tastes like a crispy, chewy and oh-so-fishy onion ring. I recommend that kalamari fanatics try it with the creamy garlic sauce instead.
I also ordered the Greek specialty, moussaka, which for $8 came with a Greek salad and pita bread.
The salad was great. The mix of lettuce, tomato, cucumbers, onions, feta cheese and calamata olives with a subtle garlic dressing made for a delicious grazing experience. I normally avoid black olives like the plague, but taken with the other ingredients, I was happily surprised they complement the dish nicely.
The moussaka itself was less spectacular. The baked layers of eggplant, ground beef, potatoes, herbs and spices and “special creamy sauce” sounds great on paper, but was bland in practice. While certainly a complex dish, masticators who enjoy “flavor” will be sorely disappointed. My advice to Apollo’s, leave the bland food to the British. We expect more from you.
Hank Mylander is all set to be annoyed at yet another quarter of USG campaigning. Hate mail and fan mail alike may be sent to [email protected].
