Japan’s gift of sushi has endured and evolved for more than 1,300 years, and Columbus seems to be a new hotbed for the upscale and fashionable eateries. The past couple of years have yielded numerous new Japanese restaurants all over Columbus, from Bexley to Grandview Heights and from Polaris to Downtown.
What seems an unmistakable mark of a newer sushi restaurant is the recent trends of elegant décor, upbeat music and creative fusion cuisine. Columbus’ newest sushi houses are each distinct in style, yet all of them are much warmer and pleasing to the eye than the older, more traditional and almost minimal Japanese restaurants.
Health seems to be one reason why sushi has become increasingly more popular throughout the country. The late 1970s was when sushi was first popularized in the United States. Since then sushi has made its way from California across the country to the Midwest, where steak knives are being exchanged for chopsticks.
Scott Kim, owner of Kooma, located in the Arena District, said, “People are more health conscious today, so it is natural that they would turn to foods that are better for them.”
The fattiest of fish used in sushi, such as tuna and salmon, contain less than 200 calories per four-ounce serving, half the calories of a prepared steak. Octopus and shrimp have even lower caloric counts at 100 calories per serving.
Emiko Sugiura, spokeswoman for Restaurant Hama, at Easton Town Center, agrees that people are eating sushi for its health benefits, but she also said, “Our customers comment on the many new ingredients.”
Many newer sushi houses look for creative approaches to the centuries old art of sushi. Avocado, cream cheese and pecans are some of the ingredients adding flare to a once rudimentary cuisine.
Sushi’s modest beginnings, in the seventh century, stem from the Southeastern Asians, who introduced the technique of pickling. The Japanese soon adopted the process, which entailed packing fish with rice. The fish would ferment and the rice would create a lactic acid, which in turn yielded the pickling of the pressed fish. Nare-sushi is the name given to the original 1,300-year-old process that created a finished edible product.
Columbus’ latest array of Japanese restaurants appear anything but centuries old. Sulan Eurasian Bistro, in Bexley, has a subtle-hued décor and tasteful furnishings that create a peaceful and elegant canvas for the sumptuous and colorful artwork that arrives on every plate.
Kim, of Kooma, has created a smaller, more intimate, atmosphere creating a low-key, yet upbeat ambiance. Kooma’s low-light and cutting-edge music create a club-like feel. Kim has brought in a DJ on Friday and Saturday nights, playing smooth techno and groovy trance.
“I wanted to take advantage of our downtown location. I wanted people to come here, feel the energy and then head out for the nearby clubs and bars,” Kim said.
Scott Heimlich, General Manager of Haiku, when asked why Columbus’ new Japanese restaurants are so fashionable said, “We become bored, we need excitement and a lively atmosphere.” He also said, “New traditional-style restaurants just don’t pull people in. We try to provide visual stimulus that isn’t intrusive, or that interrupts the experience.”
With the number of new, stylish and successful Japanese restaurants popping up all over Columbus, it might be time to realize that Columbus may be at the beginning of a renaissance of Japanese cuisine.
However, it has not always been smooth sailing for Japanese eateries in Columbus. Many of the owners and managers have spoken of various challenges they have endured along the way.
Kim said that the days following the Sept. 11 attacks on the World Trade Center proved to be extremely trying. Not only did he mourn with the rest of the world, but he was trying to run his new business as well.
Kooma, greatly dependent on fresh seafood, was not able to get his shipments that are flown in fresh throughout the week. As planes were grounded, and then only minimally restarted, he almost had to close down for a few days.
Similarily, Kim said that he had to drive to Chicago, return with his shipment the same day, and then turn right around and head to Baltimore and directly back to ensure his restaurant had fresh seafood, so that he could keep his doors open.
Heimlich said, “Education has been the key,” when relaying what difficulties he has seen with greater exposure to Japanese food, and even more so sushi, to Midwestern clientele. He said he witnessed a huge misconception that all Japanese food is raw fish. Sushi literally translated actually means vinegared rice.
Sushi is the combination of various seafood ingredients, vegatables, vinegared rice and whatever creative items the chef wants to incorperate. Sashimi – which actually means raw fish – is the simple placement of varied seafoods on small beds packed rice.
Heimlich had to relay to many people that Haiku also carries many noodle, chicken and beef entrees as well.
“Sushi is only 60 to 65 percent of our food sales, and only 50 percent of our menu,” Heimlich said. He is optimistic though, he has seen continued growth and he said that is encouraging.
Whatever the reason for sushi’s newfound success and the revitalization of Japanese cuisine in Columbus, the city benefits from not only a greater diversity of restaurants, but they also helps to counteract the city’s observed poor health while simultaneously boosting a more cultured image.
