This past weekend the Columbus College of Art & Design introduced its new exhibit, “Bling: Sampling Hip-Hop Fashion and the Urban Aesthetic.”
The exhibit, which incorporates fashion displays, performances, movies and lectures, pays homage to the birth of hip-hop fashion.
Hip-hop fashion has invaded mainstream style as well as high-end haute couture. “Bling” represents that growth and the power this simple movement from New York has had.
“Bling” shows that hip-hop is more than just baggy jeans, white T-shirts, and “bling-bling.” It’s a statement. It explains the deeper meaning of hip-hop fashion.
“Hip-hop fashion is a look, style or personal statement about the lifestyle you’re living that is driven by the music you love,” said Gail Nutt, senior vice president of community affairs, diversity and urban business development for Macy’s.
Nutt’s statement is true for any genre of music; however, “Bling” directly shows how the music of hip-hop drives the fashion industry and how it has shifted fashion as a whole.
“Hip-hop (fashion) is all about the best,” said Beverly Smith, fashion editor-at-large for Vibe magazine. “It’s about luxury and it is more sophisticated than what many people want to give credit to. It makes a political statement.” She referred to the anti-Bush T-shirt that has become popular and was worn by an audience member.
When entering the Canzani Center, the colors and designs shout from each mannequin. Behind the fabrics a story is told, and it is well represented in organized sections. The past 40 years of the culture are told by each of the displays. From hippies to the Black Panthers and from Rastas to B-Boys, it’s all here: the birth of hip-hop and the birth of urban fashion that shapes the industry today.
The gallery incorporates a film series as well. Hip-hop staples such as “Krush Groove,” “Wild Style,” “Beat Street” and “Breakin'” will be shown. The purpose of showing the films is to show examples of the fashion at those times, in their elements.
Most importantly, “Bling” educates. There are lectures discussing the stereotypes in hip-hop fashion, the impact of hip-hop music on children’s lives, identity development, the subjection of women, and the opportunities possible for fashion designers and journalists.
To celebrate the opening of the gallery there was a panel discussion. “Fab-Glam: The History & Future of Hip Hop Fashion” discussed the impact of hip-hop fashion and the issues that arose when hip-hop started to change the fashion industry.
The audience listened as the panel, made up of distinguished figures in hip-hop fashion, spoke honestly. Beverly Smith commented on trying to fit into white society and looking the part as she pursued jobs at fashion houses.
“Hip-hop made me more aware and proud of who I am,” she said. “It liberates you. But be educated, because that is the only way you have the liberty to dress how you want.”
Early on, companies such as Tommy Hilfiger and Timberland were hesitant to incorporate urban style into their fashions but are now leading lines of urban fashions, said Emil Wilbekin, former editor-at-large for Vibe magazine.
One audience member asked how the panel felt about the new NBA dress code.
“It’s a cover-up,” Nutt said, “The dress code came on the heels of the Ron Artest fight. It is a way to once again expose that negative connotation that comes with hip-hop fashion.”
Edward Buchanan, fashion designer for JLO, elaborated on the power of hip-hop fashion: “Hip-hop doesn’t ignore anyone. The consumer is colorless. It’s not about the face, it’s about beauty and glamour. Hip hop has long legs and it is moving.”
Each panelist, although from different regions of the country, all made one common point: hip-hop is evident in all forms of fashion. They had to educate companies such as Calvin Klein, Marc Jacobs and Guess that this is the culture that will lead a revolution in the way fashion will be seen.
“Bling” traces the history of hip-hop fashion from shell-toed Adidas, Kangol hats and track suits to Rocawear, Ralph Lauren, Sean John and Gucci. This exhibit is a must-see for anyone interested not only in the trends that hip-hop has transformed, but also appreciative of fashion and how one movement has affected every designer and the state of fashion today.
“Bling” runs through March 19. Visit ccad.edu for a full listing of scheduled programs.